Scotland and Orkney

People ascending Ben Nevis near Fort William in Scotland, the highest peak in the Scottish Highlands and in all of Britain.

An ascent of Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in Britain, overlooking Glen Nevis just outside Fort William.

The Road to the Isles, over 22 miles (37 km) overland across the high Scottish moors of Lochaber from Corrour Station to Fort William.

The Road to the Isles, over 22 miles (37 km) overland across the high Scottish moors of Lochaber from Corrour Station to Fort William.

Crossing a 3-wire bridge while trekking through Glen Nevis and the Water of Nevis.

A trek through Glen Nevis and the Water of Nevis.

The Brealach Walk out of Pitlochry though the Highlands past megaliths.

The Brealach Walk out of Pitlochry though the southern Highlands and past some megaliths.

Neolithic dwellings exposed on the beach at Skara Brae in Orkney.

Skara Brae, a Neolithic village on Orkney.

Neolithic Orkney: Maeshowe, the Ring of Brodgar, the Stones of Stenness, the Knowe of Onston.

Neolithic Orkney: Maeshowe, the Ring of Brodgar, the Stones of Stenness, and the Knowe of Onston.

Geos and freestanding stone pillars along the sea cliffs of the west coast of Orkney.

West Coast Walk along the sea cliffs of Orkney's Mainland Coast.

Scapa Flow and World War II naval fortifications in Orkney.

Scapa Flow and the Churchill Barriers.

The sousterrain, an underground Pict dwelling in Orkney.

The Sousterrain, an underground Pictish dwelling in Orkney.

Church yard on the Isle of Iona in the Inner Hebrides islands off the coast of Scotland.

The Isle of Iona, and Oban and Mull.

Grit box on Orkney. Grit box on Orkney.

The Grit Boxes of Scotland.

Ordnance Survey map of the peak of Ben Nevis.

Navigating with the UK National Grid system and Ordnance Survey maps.

England

Walking along the central section of Hadrian's Wall in Northumberland.

Walking along Hadrian's Wall in Northumberland.

Stonehenge.

Stonehenge, Woodhenge, and Durrington Walls.

Avebury.

Avebury, with its stone circles, Silbury Hill, the West Kennet Long Barrow, the Avenue and numerous tumuli, a much better collection of megaliths and structures than Stonehenge!

The Eagle and Child pub at Oxford, where C.S. Lewis, J.R.R. Tolkien, and the rest of the 'Inklings' gathered to discuss literature.

C.S. Lewis and J.R.R. Tolkien at Oxford.

World War II and Cold War tunnels in the White Cliffs above Dover.

Dover's tunnels in the White Cliffs from World War II through the Cold War.

The Chain Home World War II radar towers at Swingate outside Dover.

The Swingate Chain Home radar station near Dover.

The World War II glider base near Harwell, south of Oxford.

The World War II glider base near Harwell, south of Oxford.

Bletchley Park, the Allied cryptanalysis center outside London during World War II.

Bletchley Park, the secret installation where the British broke the German codes during World War II.

The Cabinet War Rooms in London.

The Cabinet War Rooms, Churchill's emergency World War II government center underground in central London.

Lee Ho Fook's restaurant in Chinatown, made famous by Warren Zevon's 'Werewolves of London'.

You could go to Lee Ho Fook's and get a big dish of beef chow mein.

Stainless steel urinal in a pub in London.

What's the plumbing like?

Travel in the U.K. — places to stay, how to get around

UK — Places to Stay

Plan ahead and have reservations. Budget places fill up fast! This is especially the case in London, which is an extremely popular destination, and in Scotland, where there aren't nearly as many places to stay and places outside Edinburgh and Glasgow are only open for part of the year.

England

Bath Bath Backpackers — 13 Pierrepont Street Bath, Avon, BA1 1LA, +44-(0)1225-446-787, www.hostels.co.uk
Cambridge No budget accommodation beyond a fairly institutional youth hostel:
Cambridge YH — 97 Tenison Road, Cambridge, Cambridgeshire, CB1 2DN, +44-(0)870-770-5742, web site at www.yha.org.uk
Glastonbury Glastonbury Backpackers — 4 Market Place, Glastonbury, Somerset, BA6 9HD, +44-(0)1458-833-353 www.glastonburybackpackers.com
Hadrian's Wall Along the best part of the wall, midway between Newcastle upon Tyne and Carlisle. Take a train from Newcastle to Bardon Mill, and then walk a few kilometers. Presumably you're going there to hike along Hadrian's Wall, so you should already have an OS map...
Twice Brewed Inn — Bardon Mill, Hexham, Northumberland, NE47 7AN, +44-(0)1434-344-534, www.twicebrewedinn.co.uk, GPS: NY 7510 6688 (British Grid)
London The Strand Continental is an old hotel well past its prime now operating partly as a hostel, or at least with shared rooms. — 143 Strand, London WC2 R1JA, +44-(0)20-7836-4880, www.strand-continental.co.uk
Piccadilly Backpackers — 12 Sherwood St (NW of Piccadilly Circus), +44-(0)20-7434-9009 piccadillyhotel.net — It's enormous and rather institutional, but it's a rare decent budget place in an awfully expensive city.
I have stayed several times at Curzon House — 58 Courtfield Gardens, London SW5 0NF, +44-(0)20-7581-2116, www.curzonhousehotel.co.uk. However, they have joined the trend in in western Europe, calling themselves strictly a youth hostel and imposing an upper age limit. My impression: Many places are trying to get higher rankings on websites like hostels.com and tripadviser.com and think that an age limit leads to high rankings for a "party atmosphere". Given how grungy and borderline depressing the Curzon House can be, that's hard to imagine.
Oxford Oxford Backpackers — 9a Hythe Bridge Street, Oxford OX1 2EW, +44-(0)1865-721-761, www.hostels.co.uk, GPS: SP 5080 0630
Salisbury Salisbury YH — Milford Hill, Salisbury, Wiltshire, SP1 2QW, +44-(0)1722-327-572, http://www.hihostels.com/dba/hostel018022.en.htm
Winchester There is no longer a youth hostel in the old mill. Here is a couple that does reasonable B&B in a nice house near the rail station:
Mrs B Sullivan B&B — 29 Stockbridge Road, Winchester, Hampshire SO22 6RW, +44-(0)1962-862-027, sullivans_bandb@amerve.net
York York Backpackers — Micklegate House, 88-90 Micklegate, York, +44-(0)1904-627-720, www.yorkbackpackers.co.uk

Scotland

Edinburgh Castle Rock Backpackers — My favorite place in Edinburgh — 15 Johnston Terrace, Edinburgh EH1 2PW, +44-(0)131-225-9666, www.scotlandstophostels.com
If they're full, I've also stayed at Edinburgh Backpackers — 65 Cockburn Street, Edinburgh EH1 1BU, +44-(0)131-220-2200, www.hoppo.com
Not as nice, but OK in a pinch: Brodies — 93 High St, +44-(0)131-55-622-23, brodieshostels.co.uk
Fort William Fort William Backpackers — Alma Road, Fort William, PH33 6BH, +44-(0)1397-700-711, www.scotlandstophostels.com
Isle of Skye Skye Backpackers — Kyleakin, Isle of Skye, IV41 8PH, +44-(0)1599-534-510, www.scotlandstophostels.com
Oban Oban Backpackers — www.scotlandstophostels.com
Stromness, Orkney Islands Brown's Hostel — 45-47 Victoria Street, Stromness, Orkney, KW16 3BS, +44-(0)1856-850-661, +44-(0)1856-851-780 fax, www.brownshostel.co.uk

Transportation

Ask the man in Seat 61 for all details on UK train travel.

All Rail and Tube Maps
National Rail Railway maps
Main page
Coach National Express
Megabus

Telecommunications

UK telephone numbers —
+44-(0)1599-534-510 requires dialing:
From outside the UK: international-access-code 44-1599-534-510
From a different city in the UK: 0-1599-534-510
From the same city in the UK: 1599-534-510 or possibly just 534-510

Guide Books

I have generally been very happy with the Lonely Planet guide books, at least for logistic details of how to get around and where to stay. They have a pretty good overview of what the important things are to say.

However, as someone who speaks Colonial English, I find some of the Lonely Planet titles a little hard to follow, what with their descriptions of places as "rather twee" and "cluttered with a lot of naff pikes" and other British slang.

Also, when I first bought a Lonely Planet book, for Japan in 1992, they were definitely for the independent traveler. Now they are far more upscale. I have read that their current accommodations coverage is intentionally only about 20% budget, 20% ultra-expensive, and 60% medium to fairly expensive.


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