South to the Libyan Sea

Driving South to Kalamaki on the Libyan Sea Coast

I was in western Crete, and had visited Rethymno, the ancient city of Aptera, and the Minoan cemetery at Armeni.

Now I was headed for the south coast. I would stay in Kalamaki while visiting ancient sites in that area.

I would get there via Spili and Agia Galini.

It's a two-lane highway south from Rethymno, continuing past the Minoan cemetery at Armeni.

Small town south of the Minoan cemetery at Armeni, driving south from the Minoan tombs at Armeni to Kalamaki on the south coast of Crete.

Σπήλι or Spili sits below the western slope of Mount Kedros. The town seems to have been established when this area was controlled by the Byzantine Empire. Now, with less than 600 inhabitants, it's the seat of the Holy Metropolis of Lampi, Syvritos, and Sfakion, one of eight dioceses in Crete, and the home of the Association of Scientists of the Municipality of Lampi.

Spili and Mount Kedros on the road from the Minoan tombs at Armeni to Kalamaki on the south coast of Crete.

Andartes and the Kreipe Abduction

Residents of Spili were active in the Cretan Resistance against the German occupation of 1941–1944. They were members of the EAM or National Liberation Front, and the EOR, a branch of the EEC or National Organization of Crete.

Mount Kedros is a southwestern extension of the Psiloritis massif. Springs on the mountain provide water for the town. Psiloritis water is bottled and shipped throughout Greece.

South of Spili a road branches off to Aktounta, Vatos, Ardaktos, Drymiskos, Kerames, and several other small towns and beaches.

Road intersection south of Spili on the road south from the Minoan tombs at Armeni to Kalamaki on the south coast of Crete.

The road continues south between Mount Kedros and Mount Siderotas.

Mount Kedros on the road south from the Minoan tombs at Armeni to Kalamaki on the south coast of Crete.

Αγία Γαλήνη or Agia Galini is on Messara Bay, opening into the Libyan Sea. According to tradition, Daedalus and Icarus escaped Crete by taking flight from a large rock next to the port.

Well, they both escaped from Crete. But only Daedalus survived the flight.

Agia Galini was the first place on the south coast to be developed as a holiday resort. In high season it's packed with foreign visitors. In late April, when I was there, most places were open but there were no crowds.

Agia Galini, Messara Bay, and the Libyan Sea on the south coast of Crete.

Agia Galini was built on the ruins of the ancient city of Soulia, which was the port of ancient Syvritos. The ruins of a temple to Artemis are next to the Platis river where it passes through the town while entering the sea. Soulia flourished until a Saracen pirate raid destroyed it in 640 CE.

Kalamaki is about ten kilometers down the coast, visible in the distance in the southeast.

View from Agia Galini to Kalamaki across Messara Bay on the south coast of Crete.

The highway toward Kalamaki loops inland through the Platis river valley before turning south to Tibaki.

View northeast from Agia Galini to the Psiloritis massif on the south coast of Crete.

At Tibaki I turned off the highway, taking a local road south to Kamilari and then turning west to Kalamaki. Here is the view northwest from where I stayed in Kalamaki, looking back to Agia Galini.